swell

been some crazy swell the last few days, some places getting it better than others.. been lucky to get a couple of days of primo right handers with only having to share it with a few good friends.. it helped to wash away the shit that flooded my world in the last few weeks..

..

The only thing you can truly control in life is how you react to a situation..

Death takes us all..

RIP Brother

Been sick..

Running..

There is over 20 kms of tracks crisscrossing the national park outside my front door with over 11 surf checks strategically placed along the way.. what the wind/swell is doing will dictate which direction I'll head on my morning run.. lifes good..