Monday, August 25, 2008


had a pretty good sesh up at the bay today overhead plus rolling into insane deathpit close out barrels in a foot of water on the inside, super fun, couldn't get the grin off my face no matter how many times I got body slammed on the inside, the pin tail just smoking... the complete absence of longboarders was duly noted... which got me thinking, if you will only surf when its shoulder height and lower, please don't just stand there with a style like a constipated gorilla, those waves have travelled thousands of miles to reach you please don't let them die for nothing, try and embrace the wonderful dance that is surfing a nine ft plus board in waist high waves... here's a little inspiration

1 comment:

Mick said...

That is a beautiful little film, thanks for popping it on!!