Cry..

this was taken from the surf and destory blog.. I'm a dog owner.. my cheeks are still wet..

Last Minutes with ODEN from phos pictures on Vimeo.

Nice..

How good is that feeling you get after you've had an grand little surf..

Homemade Things..

Haven't blogged for a while cause I've been having far to much fun in the real world..

Handplanes.. uber fun.. shape and go..


Vege garden.. grow what you eat.. slow food..

Alaia's.. learn to trim and the smile will appear..

Homebrew.. brew what you drink.. cider and ale in the barrel.. ginger beer and stout bottled off.. summer sorted..

I surfed today..

and it was sooo good...

Finless days..

I've been fortunate enough to be able to give a Derek Hynd shaped finless board a good workout over the last few weeks (thanks Mick).. so much fun, very, very addictive..
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Pommie the mad bastard kneeboarder giving it a good thrashing at Tiber today

swell

been some crazy swell the last few days, some places getting it better than others.. been lucky to get a couple of days of primo right handers with only having to share it with a few good friends.. it helped to wash away the shit that flooded my world in the last few weeks..

..

The only thing you can truly control in life is how you react to a situation..

Death takes us all..

RIP Brother

Been sick..

Running..

There is over 20 kms of tracks crisscrossing the national park outside my front door with over 11 surf checks strategically placed along the way.. what the wind/swell is doing will dictate which direction I'll head on my morning run.. lifes good..

Warturd Cup..

The beer has been brought, babysitter trucked in, hope the rain eases up cause we're ready to party

Fresh fruit for rotten vegetables

apart from the HP longboarding (which I can never get my bearded head around.. ride a shortboard if you want do a superman airwalk you dickhead.. ) this is a fine film, of course it was always going to get my vote as it contains a grand mini-simmons section.. two thumbs up..

Today, today..

Alaia 2..

Woodworking.. pulled the tail in on this one to see.. to see..

Alaia 1..

Yesterday...

Tiber st..

The reefs today..

The left..

The right..

surfed the right, 6 to 8 ft, not another soul out.. 120 meters from where I sleep at night.. paradise

Shark..

I have finally managed to watch "sharkwater" (it always takes a while for me to grow the balls to watch anything that concerns sharks.. ignorance is bliss..) Now I plead with you all, please view it.. cause its a fine, fine movie..
Oh and also the above pic was stolen from the bang bang club blog, the pic just brought a grin to my face that is only surpassed by this pic from the mighty eff at monsterboards.org

lullaby..

Ever since I hit the ground running from home in my early teens I've always seem to have had a abode were I could fall asleep at night to the sound of a babbling creek or the roar of the ocean intersped with the occasional foray into the sweet sounds of the inner city.. for the last two months I've been holed up in suburbia with the sounds of bored youth doing burnouts and the hum and crackle of overhead powerlines being my bedtime music, tomorrow that all changes, a new home awaits, next to the beach, the sound of lapping waves to escort me to dreamtime..

House..

Track to beach..

Beach.. sorted.

Mr McBride

This fine gentleman turns up at longboard contest's and repeatedly smokes every ones arses on heavily glassed single fins, In my reasoning he and Moonbob (and maybe Trent Ellis)are the preeminent longboarders from the land of the white cloud...grand artists too..

surf bliss..

this little clip has been around for a while but I just love playing it when I'm uptight or down cause it just straight away puts me in that happy place I get into after a fine avro glass off sesh on a heavily glassed single fin long board in waist high waves

Blatting..

Nothing beats hauling arse on a chopper with a couple of mates.. maybe bombing hills on your deck, rolling in a pack 10 deep.. memories of Queen St 3 30 in the morning in '89

smooth

Rob and left handers is there no finer eye candy..

If in the Desert from chase burns on Vimeo.

Soon..

Korduroy.tv

180 degrees south

I have mad respect for Yvon Chouiard, his "let my people go surfing" speech at Stanford (and not to mention the fine book of the same name) is awe inspiring.. plus he started Black Diamond which in my humble opinion make the grandest ice axes I've ever swung..and the Patagonia wetsuits aren't to shabby either..I've been looking forward to this one.. surfing, climbing and sailing all in one flick..nice

Multigrain Extraordinaire..

Nothing tastes better than a piece of bread slathed in butter straight out of the oven but the grand thing about this loaf is that it comes into its own on day 2 and onwards as toast.. its just fucking magic.. post surf, piece of toast, butter, avo, and fresh ground pepper.. I've been known to cut a sesh short just because I can't get the thought of that piece of toast out of my brain...

The trick to this loaf (or any bread) is to use unbleached bakers flour

Soaker:
3 Tablespoons polenta
3 Tablespoons rolled oats
2 Tablespoons wheat bran
1/4 cup water at room temp

Dough:
3 cups white flour
3 Tablespoons brown sugar
11/2 Teaspoons salt
1 Tablespoons instant yeast
3 Tablespoons cooked brown rice
11/2 Tablespoons honey
1/2 cup of milk at room temp
3/4 cup of water at room temp

1: Make the soaker the day before in a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap
2: To make dough, mix flour, brown sugar, salt and yeast together,
Add the soaker, brown rice, honey, milk and water in a large bowl,
3: Chuck the mixture on to a floured bench and kneed that fucker till smooth..try for 10 mins, Ha
4: Put into a oiled bowl, cover with a tea towel and place in a warm area for about a hour an a half.. it should of risen a fair bit,
5: Transfer to an oiled bread tin, cover with the tea towel and let rise till above the edge of the tin,
6: Cook for about 20 mins at 200c, fuck knows what that is in USA..
7: Try and let that the baby cool for at least one hour.. hopefully..

The water is freezing..

folded my knee at Zen Do Kai so been a land lubber for the last few days.. not too upset (yet) as the water has turned phenomenly cold.. and I've got a couple of new surf DVDs to wear out


Still.. a hull sesh never goes astray

Herd mentality..

Went over to Point Leo for the first time last week, drove down to the surf club and walked down the track to see about 40 people, ranging from a surf school to the always fine middleaged, overweight longboarders, surfing a very medicore, mushy, sectoning crap wave.. people were jostling for position to catch one of these mushburgers, boards being pushed, insults hurled, the whole nine yards, fuck that was running though my brain till I turned my head exactly 45 degrees and saw a right hander peel of a reef about 800 meters down the beach..nice.. so I suited up grabbed the speed dialer and strolled off.. I hit the water the same time as a longboarder who must of been thinking the same thing as me, thank fuck for herd mentality.. we shared waves all on our ownsome for about 3 hours till the tide did its thing...

Lest we forget...

Saturday is ANZAC day.. time to raise a beer for the old diggers.. and for the ones that didn't make it back..







1RAR (Res)
Pte G Sher

4RAR
LCpl J Marks
LT M Fussel
Pte L Worsley

This beers for you boys..

Word..

“Liquidate the entire rapacious monstrosity that is the global surfing industry. Eradicate the gloating, insolent, overfed, carrion-feeding surf media altogether. Destroy the overweening, insidious and growing attraction that surf fashion is for landlubbers. Dismantle, annihilate and devastate the whole swelling putrescent edifice of surfing once and for all. There are too many people in the water and all I want to do is go surfing with my mates goddammit.”

Letter, Tracks Magazine

stolen from Kurungabaa

Dingo's, dolphins, pelicans and point breaks

Spent some time recently up at a North Coast national park.. pure fucking magic

Always a fine day..

Nothing better than a new stick

siiick maaate...

Suburbia

Somehow I've found myself deep in suburbia...

The Walrus

Eef at monsterboards.org has created a fucking phenomenal book showcasing his artwork, right at the end is this fine portrait..

Books..

When I was a kid I fucking loved those "choose your own ending" books, I just lapped them up.. seemed to of missed this one..

Jazz the Glass

Pirates and surfing...is there nothing finer..

Bikes..

Been missing not having a bike for a while... watched this clip and went fuck it, it has to be done, time to be a jockey again.

And this is the sled I'm chasing