Thursday, April 30, 2009

Herd mentality..

Went over to Point Leo for the first time last week, drove down to the surf club and walked down the track to see about 40 people, ranging from a surf school to the always fine middleaged, overweight longboarders, surfing a very medicore, mushy, sectoning crap wave.. people were jostling for position to catch one of these mushburgers, boards being pushed, insults hurled, the whole nine yards, fuck that was running though my brain till I turned my head exactly 45 degrees and saw a right hander peel of a reef about 800 meters down the beach..nice.. so I suited up grabbed the speed dialer and strolled off.. I hit the water the same time as a longboarder who must of been thinking the same thing as me, thank fuck for herd mentality.. we shared waves all on our ownsome for about 3 hours till the tide did its thing...

1 comment:

micro said...

vr is ferkin cool mate, thanks for the stoke, no deck plug in 3 foot at racecourse is fun