Herd mentality..

Went over to Point Leo for the first time last week, drove down to the surf club and walked down the track to see about 40 people, ranging from a surf school to the always fine middleaged, overweight longboarders, surfing a very medicore, mushy, sectoning crap wave.. people were jostling for position to catch one of these mushburgers, boards being pushed, insults hurled, the whole nine yards, fuck that was running though my brain till I turned my head exactly 45 degrees and saw a right hander peel of a reef about 800 meters down the beach..nice.. so I suited up grabbed the speed dialer and strolled off.. I hit the water the same time as a longboarder who must of been thinking the same thing as me, thank fuck for herd mentality.. we shared waves all on our ownsome for about 3 hours till the tide did its thing...

Lest we forget...

Saturday is ANZAC day.. time to raise a beer for the old diggers.. and for the ones that didn't make it back..







1RAR (Res)
Pte G Sher

4RAR
LCpl J Marks
LT M Fussel
Pte L Worsley

This beers for you boys..

Word..

“Liquidate the entire rapacious monstrosity that is the global surfing industry. Eradicate the gloating, insolent, overfed, carrion-feeding surf media altogether. Destroy the overweening, insidious and growing attraction that surf fashion is for landlubbers. Dismantle, annihilate and devastate the whole swelling putrescent edifice of surfing once and for all. There are too many people in the water and all I want to do is go surfing with my mates goddammit.”

Letter, Tracks Magazine

stolen from Kurungabaa

Dingo's, dolphins, pelicans and point breaks

Spent some time recently up at a North Coast national park.. pure fucking magic

Always a fine day..

Nothing better than a new stick

siiick maaate...

Suburbia

Somehow I've found myself deep in suburbia...

The Walrus

Eef at monsterboards.org has created a fucking phenomenal book showcasing his artwork, right at the end is this fine portrait..

Books..

When I was a kid I fucking loved those "choose your own ending" books, I just lapped them up.. seemed to of missed this one..

Jazz the Glass

Pirates and surfing...is there nothing finer..

Bikes..

Been missing not having a bike for a while... watched this clip and went fuck it, it has to be done, time to be a jockey again.

And this is the sled I'm chasing

Bomb coffee..

Crazy Kees, a Tairua old boy has set him and his whanau up with a full blown organic coffee plantation in the hinterland of the Gold Coast.. using skills developed growing other wonderstuff in the Pauanui hills he now produces some fucking insanely fine coffee.. a perfect life.. hitting the points in the morning then grinding some bags in the arvo.. its along way from living in the van next to the toilet block at the Tairua carpark.. the photo is of a bag of beans from his personal stash.. one cup and your fucked, you better be hitting the water when the 'ffine hits...